Anthony Vaccarello marked his 10th anniversary at Saint Laurent with a gold-themed runway show in Paris, sparking speculation regarding his future at the Kering-owned fashion house.
Key facts
- •Anthony Vaccarello marked his 10th anniversary at Saint Laurent with a collection presented exactly ten years and two days after his 2016 debut.
- •The designer sent a note with black calla lilies to guests stating the collection was personal and charged with emotion.
- •The show featured a gold-heavy color palette, referencing a historical Yves Saint Laurent quote about gold being 'the color of the sun.'
- •Model Anja Rubik led the final sequence of twelve black looks wearing an 80s-style velvet skirt suit.
- •Vaccarello bypassed Kering executives during the finale to hand an item described by his PR team as a good-luck charm to a guest.
Anthony Vaccarello debuted his Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection for Saint Laurent on Tuesday night in Paris. The event, held at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, marked exactly ten years and two days since the designer’s 2016 debut at the brand. Amid widespread industry speculation that the show served as a farewell, Vaccarello opted for a personal, emotional presentation rather than his traditional pre-show interviews with journalists.
A Gilded Runway Presentation
The collection focused heavily on gold, utilizing a wide array of fabrics including lamé, organza, guipure lace, chiffon, brocade, jacquard, metallic cotton, and latex. The garments featured signature Saint Laurent silhouettes such as sahariennes, trench coats, pencil skirts, and cocktail dresses, accented by mousseline scarves in shades of absinthe, amber, and cognac. The show concluded with a finale of twelve all-black looks, a reversal of the brand's Fall 1991 Rive Gauche collection which ended in gold.
Atmosphere and Notable Guests
The runway was set beneath three large, candlelit chandeliers on a glossy black surface, with the Eiffel Tower visible in the background. The soundtrack included Miles Davis’s music for the film 'Elevator to the Gallows' and readings from William Shakespeare’s 'Sonnet 116.' Longtime collaborator Charlotte Gainsbourg performed during the finale, receiving an embrace from Vaccarello as the audience gave the designer an ovation. Attendees included high-profile guests such as Zoë Kravitz, Rami Malek, Kate Moss, Catherine Deneuve, Hailey Bieber, Donatella Versace, and Pierpaolo Piccioli.
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