Creative director Veronica Leoni discusses her approach to the Calvin Klein Collection, her design philosophy, and her focus on the brand's 1976 heritage.
Key facts
- •Veronica Leoni debuted as the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection last year.
- •Leoni’s brand, Quira, was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2023.
- •The fall 2026 collection features designs inspired by the gym culture of the late 1970s and early 1980s.
- •Leoni replicated a pair of 1976 Calvin Klein jeans for her recent runway show, which was attended by Brooke Shields.
- •Leoni previously worked under Phoebe Philo at Celine and held roles at Jil Sander and The Row.
Veronica Leoni, the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, is shaping the brand’s future by balancing minimalist design with a distinct, bold aesthetic. Since joining the house last year, Leoni has focused on reinterpreting the brand's history while maintaining a rigorous creative process. Her recent work, including the fall 2026 collection, draws inspiration from the brand's foundational years in the late 1970s.
Design Philosophy and Background
Leoni, who previously worked at Jil Sander, The Row, and Celine, describes her approach as minimalist but loud. Her background includes studying literature and philosophy at the Sapienza Università di Roma before moving into fashion. She also founded her own brand, Quira, which was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2023. As one of the few women leading a major fashion brand, Leoni emphasizes the importance of reclaiming auteurism in design.
Fall 2026 Collection and Heritage
For her fall 2026 collection, Leoni drew inspiration from the 'cult of the body' prevalent in the late 1970s and early 1980s, incorporating sleeveless designs, side cutouts, and sheer fabrics. She also revisited the brand's history with denim, replicating a pair of jeans from 1976. This choice was a nod to Calvin Klein’s role as a pioneer in elevating denim to luxury status, a tradition she has integrated into her last three runway shows.
Engaging with the Archive
Leoni maintains a deliberate relationship with the brand's Long Island archive, aiming to avoid purely nostalgic replicas. She focuses on the essence of the brand's early years, specifically the 1976 period. Currently, Leoni is working on the spring 2027 collection, continuing her process of stripping away unnecessary elements from each piece to refine the final design.
Timeline
- 1976Calvin Klein began including denim in his runway shows.
- 1978The Calvin Klein Jeans division was established.
- 2023Leoni’s brand, Quira, was an LVMH Prize finalist.
- 2025Veronica Leoni debuted as creative director of Calvin Klein Collection.
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This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by Elle.
