Designer Xuzhi Chen showcased the Xu Zhi Spring 2027 collection, titled 'The Girls,' at the historic Okura Garden Hotel in Shanghai.

Designer Xuzhi Chen presented his latest collection for the label Xu Zhi at the Okura Garden Hotel in Shanghai. Staged in the venue's 1926 ballroom, the show featured models walking to a live musical performance that transitioned from classical harp to a grungier sound. The collection, titled 'The Girls,' explored themes of vulnerability and the balance between softness and strength.

Collection Design and Aesthetic

The collection blended Victorian-inspired elements, such as nightgowns and wired crinolines, with modern streetwear staples like distressed denim, biker jackets, and military outerwear. Details including jacquard silk, lace inserts, and floral beadwork were intended to evoke the intimacy of bedroom attire. Chen described 'girlness' as a quality rather than a gender, applying this concept to both male and female models. Male models appeared in shrunken T-shirts, long coats, and military jackets, often styled with lace shirts and boxer shorts. The designer utilized lace-up ballet shoes to provide a delicate contrast to more muscular silhouettes, emphasizing a fusion of Victorian aesthetics and grunge-era street style.

Cultural Sensibility and Inspiration

Chen stated that the collection reflects the Chinese spirit through a balance of fragility and resolve. Rather than relying on overt decorative motifs, the designer focused on a sensibility that bridges Eastern and Western influences. The presentation aimed to highlight the presence of vulnerability within fashion, allowing it to surface through the juxtaposition of soft and structured garments.