Designer Emilia Wickstead presented her Spring 2027 collection via a film, drawing inspiration from the life and work of 1940s artist Lee Krasner.
Key facts
- •The Spring 2027 collection was presented via a film at the brand's Sloane Street store in London.
- •Designer Emilia Wickstead used light cotton tweed for the first time in a spring collection.
- •The collection features asymmetrical bibs on long dresses that can be folded down or tied up.
- •Lee Krasner’s 1956 painting 'Prophecy' inspired the color palette of the cotton tweed garments.
- •The presentation was a collaboration with London restaurateur Jeremy King.
Emilia Wickstead unveiled her Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection through a film presentation hosted at her Sloane Street store in London. Collaborating with restaurateur Jeremy King, the designer sought to showcase how her garments function in real-world settings. The collection centers on the legacy of American Abstract Expressionist artist Lee Krasner, highlighting her influence on the brand's signature silhouettes.
Design Inspirations and Techniques
Wickstead drew direct inspiration from Lee Krasner, aiming to celebrate the artist's history of reinvention. The collection incorporates signature fit-and-flare dresses and architectural necklines, updated with details reflecting Krasner’s aesthetic, such as slightly frayed silk chiffon trim intended to convey an 'undone' feel. Long dresses in black chiffon or pink silk feature asymmetrical bibs that allow for adjustable décolletage exposure. For the first time in a spring collection, Wickstead utilized a light cotton tweed, woven in shades of beige, pink, and yellow to mirror the palette of Krasner’s 1956 painting, 'Prophecy.' Additionally, hand-painted daisy and leaf prints were included to honor Krasner’s personal affinity for nature.
Presentation and Atmosphere
Moving away from a traditional runway format, the collection was revealed through a film that depicts models moving through pastel-colored rooms. The film captures the production process, including seamstresses applying final touches to garments like a peppermint strapless gown. The backdrop colors—ranging from lavender to lemon yellow—were designed to shift and recontextualize the clothing worn by the models. The presentation was produced in partnership with Jeremy King, whose restaurant, Simpsons on the Strand, provided refreshments for the event.
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This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by Vogue.
