Designer Haider Ackermann presented his Spring 2027 collection for Tom Ford, featuring a mix of sharp tailoring, swimwear, and 1990s-inspired silhouettes.
Key facts
- •Haider Ackermann introduced swimwear to the Tom Ford runway for the first time.
- •The collection features a red silk robe with a 'TF' monogram as a tribute to Hugh Hefner.
- •Tailored jackets and suits were presented in baby blue, black, olive, and white.
- •Accessories included weekend bags in leather, crocodile, and linen, some featuring embroidery.
- •Ackermann cited a desire for more eccentricity and nudity compared to his previous work for the house.
Designer Haider Ackermann showcased his Spring 2027 collection for Tom Ford, marking his first runway presentation of swimwear for the brand. The collection blends sharp tailoring with racy, barely-there pieces, aiming to capture a sense of freedom, ease, and audacity. Ackermann described the collection as a playful and slightly more dangerous direction for the house, drawing inspiration from the brand's 1990s roots.
Design Elements and Aesthetics
The collection features a palette of baby blue, black, olive, and white, alongside deep reds reminiscent of Tom Ford’s signature lipsticks. Models wore tailored suits and jackets with nothing underneath, or paired with plunging swimsuits and bras. Evening dresses in silk were designed to slip off the shoulders, revealing leather or satin bra tops, while other pieces featured high collars and geometric cutouts. The runway also included accessories such as skyscraper heels and weekend bags crafted from leather, crocodile, and linen.
Playful References and Influences
Ackermann incorporated several nods to the brand's history and broader cultural references. A red silk robe featuring a 'TF' monogram on the pocket and a series of bathrobe-style trenchcoats served as a tribute to Playboy founder Hugh Hefner. The designer also noted that the collection's spirit was influenced by the swagger of the 1970s character Tony Manero from 'Saturday Night Fever' and the aesthetic of 1990s Helmut Newton photography.
Designer's Vision for the Future
Expressing increased comfort in his role at Tom Ford, Ackermann stated his intention to continue pushing the house's boundaries. He emphasized a desire to maintain a sense of joy and risk-taking, noting that the current direction is intended to make the team feel alive. The collection also introduced practical elements, such as Tom Ford logo T-shirts and perforated logo lettering on leather jackets, for those seeking more coverage.
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This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by WWD.
