H&M presented its Studio collection in a production directed by Nick Knight, featuring designs inspired by Italian photography and cinema.
Key facts
- •The H&M Studio collection was designed by a team led by Ann-Sofie Johansson, who has been with the company for nearly 40 years.
- •ShowStudio founder Nick Knight directed the runway production, which included live dance and musical performances.
- •Design influences included the photography of Fernando Scianna and the visual style of the film La Dolce Vita.
- •Garments featured a mix of structured tailoring, such as Monteco wool overcoats, and sensual elements like lace-edged satin.
- •The show experienced minor interruptions when three protesters entered the runway during the presentation.
H&M debuted its Fall 2026 Studio collection in London with a performance-heavy runway show conceived by ShowStudio founder Nick Knight. The event, which included dance and musical performances, featured models walking in both darkened settings illuminated by simulated paparazzi flashes and bright displays using digital filters. The collection, led by H&M’s head of womenswear design Ann-Sofie Johansson, drew inspiration from the photography of Fernando Scianna and the aesthetic of La Dolce Vita.
Design Inspirations and Aesthetic
The collection was informed by a research trip to Palermo and the chiaroscuro photography of Bagheria-born Magnum photographer Fernando Scianna. Ann-Sofie Johansson, who has led H&M’s womenswear design for nearly 40 years, aimed to capture a look that avoids appearing too proper. The resulting designs emphasize a contrast between structured elements, such as slim tailoring and corseting, and sensual details like lace-edged satin and slip dresses.
Key Garments and Details
The collection features strong-shouldered overcoats made from Monteco wool and rib-knit garments designed to move with the body. Specific design tensions are highlighted through layered details, such as doubled-up cuffs and collars, scrunched satin faux-underpinnings beneath tailored necklines, and horsehair-textured fringe on low-heeled pumps. Additionally, embroidered clusters of dark foliage appear across various dresses and skirts to add texture and articulation.
Production and Performance
The runway show was directed by Nick Knight and incorporated various multimedia elements, including a spoken-word rendition of Foreigner’s 'I Want to Know What Love Is.' During the presentation, three protesters entered the runway, though the event proceeded without incident. The show concluded with a visual effect that mirrored models through a gouache-tinted filter, a technique compared to the 1985 music video for A-ha’s 'Take on Me.'
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This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by Vogue.
