New collections from Emporio Armani, La DoubleJ, and Brioni highlight diverse approaches to spring tailoring, craftsmanship, and seasonal aesthetics in Milan.
Key facts
- •The Emporio Armani collection was the final presentation overseen by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani.
- •La DoubleJ opened a new flagship store in New York City off Madison Avenue.
- •Brioni’s collection included a jacket crafted from silver thread with three-dimensional crystal embroidery.
- •The La DoubleJ presentation took place at the Palazzo Clerici, an 18th-century Milanese palace.
- •Emporio Armani’s showspace, Armani/Teatro, was designed by Tadao Ando and opened in 2001.
Milan’s spring 2027 fashion presentations featured distinct visions from Emporio Armani, La DoubleJ, and Brioni. Emporio Armani showcased a transitional collection titled "Traces of Time" at the Armani/Teatro, while La DoubleJ embraced lightness at the Palazzo Clerici. Simultaneously, Brioni focused on personalized women’s tailoring and bespoke craftsmanship through its La Donna Atelier collection.
Emporio Armani’s Transitional Collection
The Emporio Armani presentation, titled "Traces of Time," marked a transition as Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani prepare to hand over creative duties to Dario Vitale. The collection featured a chromatic progression from white to black, incorporating shades of green, gray, and greige. Designs included crushed fabrics, oversized trenches, and patterns inspired by natural elements like tree rings, marble seams, and fossils. The collection concluded with intricate details, such as salt crystals embedded in denim and mineralized patterns on waistcoats.
La DoubleJ Explores Lightness
JJ Martin’s La DoubleJ collection at the Palazzo Clerici moved toward a more streamlined aesthetic, emphasizing lightness and ease. While the brand is known for maximalist prints, this season introduced solids, stripes, and polka dots, alongside airy capes. Martin noted that the shift was influenced by recent heat waves in Europe, leading to the removal of heavy embellishments like fringe and tassels. Despite the focus on simplicity, the brand maintained its signature detail with unique, hand-embroidered drawstring pochettes.
Brioni’s Bespoke Women’s Tailoring
Brioni’s La Donna Atelier spring 2027 collection emphasized personalized tailoring through its Su Misura project, allowing for extensive customization of fabrics, linings, and embroidery. The collection featured fluid silhouettes, including a belted version of the brand’s signature Jardigan, and introduced suede and nubuck leather to add a tactile dimension. The color palette drew from Roman sunsets and marble, accented by powder blue silks and new cufflinks inspired by the city’s cobblestones.
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This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by Vogue.
