A new report from the University of Oxford and Dirt Charity suggests fashion's fiber sourcing affects 1.45 billion hectares of land, though it does not claim the industry occupies all of it.
Key facts
- •Leather and wool represent 18.25 percent and 11 percent of global agricultural land, respectively.
- •The report estimates that apparel accounts for approximately half of global fiber production.
- •A five-year trial at the Sekem initiative in Egypt showed cotton yields increased by nearly 30 percent under biodynamic management.
- •The report notes that leather production processed over 2.9 billion square meters of material globally in 2024.
- •The authors acknowledge that the wool land estimate relies on a single available figure from the group Circumfauna.
A report from the University of Oxford’s Smith School of Enterprise and the Environment and Dirt Charity estimates that five natural fiber groups affect 1.45 billion hectares, or 30.15 percent, of global agricultural land. The researchers argue that fashion and textile companies exert influence over this territory through their purchasing decisions, rather than directly occupying the land. The study emphasizes that how a fiber is farmed often creates greater environmental differences than the choice of material itself.
By the numbers
Fiber Categories and Land Use
Leather and wool account for nearly 97 percent of the total land area identified in the report, with leather linked to 876 million hectares of grazing land and wool to 528.4 million hectares. Cotton, silk, linen, and hemp make up the remainder of the 1.45 billion hectares. The report counts the full agricultural footprint associated with these fibers, even when the land is shared with food or dairy production.
Environmental Impact and Farming Methods
The report highlights that production methods significantly influence environmental outcomes. For example, life cycle assessments for leather showed carbon dioxide equivalent emissions ranging from 8.5 to 151.9 kilograms per square meter. The study also reviewed organic, regenerative, and biodynamic agriculture, noting evidence that organic and biodynamic systems can improve soil health and species richness, though it characterized the scientific evidence for biodynamics as tentative.
Industry Influence and Future Standards
Dirt Charity founder Arizona Muse stated that the report measures the power fashion brands hold to influence farming practices through their sourcing requirements. Dirt is currently developing the Demeter Textile Standard, which aims to set requirements for soil health, biodiversity, and animal welfare. The report is presented as a preliminary framework for further inquiry rather than a final analysis.
Advertisement
This article was independently rewritten by ManyPress editorial AI from reporting originally published by WWD.
