Shanghai Fashion Week offered a quieter-than-usual season featuring designers like Samuel Gui Yang, Oude Waag, and Pronounce, alongside major international activations.

Following a monthlong fashion marathon across New York and Paris, Shanghai Fashion Week provided a quieter respite in a bustling metropolis. Despite challenging business conditions and a fatigued audience, local designers including Samuel Gui Yang, Oude Waag, and Pronounce generated excitement with distinctive collections that responded nimbly to industry trends. Global names and activations from brands like Chanel, Prada, Balenciaga, and LVMH also drew traction during the event.

Cultural References and New Collections

Designer Samuel Gui Yang drew inspiration from the Chinese tale of the White Snake and Green Snake sisters, filtering it through early-1990s Hong Kong cinema aesthetics and David Hockney-inspired blues. Yang recently opened his first stand-alone Shanghai store next door to Pronounce, a brand cofounded by his Central Saint Martins classmate Yushan Li. Li and cofounder Jun Zhou returned to Shanghai to celebrate their label's 10th anniversary with their first pre-collection, exploring yin and yang through a varied cast that included Dr. Qin Huilan. Oude Waag's Yin Jingwei presented a spring lineup moving from darker tones to lighter, buoyant shades, featuring knit skirts and a new trenchcoat direction.

Expanding Categories and International Presence

Several labels explored new product categories, including Samuel Gui Yang and Shushu/Tong showing interest in expanding into bags. Shushu/Tong founders Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang drew on the upbeat mood of Jacques Demy's film 'The Umbrellas of Cherbourg.' Meanwhile, Ao Yes and Sifan Chen translated traditional Chinese cultural references for contemporary audiences, utilizing Song brocade, hand embroidery, and gray linen. International reach was also visible through group showcases of Korean designers at the Mode showroom and participants from Barcelona, Tokyo, and Hong Kong at the Sage showroom.

Brand Activations Across the City

Global presence extended beyond the runways with activations across Shanghai. Alpinestars RSRV transformed the ENG Concept Store into a Formula 1-inspired pit stop, Feng Chen Wang launched the Rebel Daughter line with Under Armour, and Edison Chen opened a Hong Kong-style Clot diner on Nanjing West Road. Adidas and Y-3 also hosted a fashion show and exhibition highlighting Stan Smith and a collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto.